On 13th May 2007 evening my regular guide-porter, Debu met me at the Bageshwar KMVN-TRC. He had brought along an assistant, Balwant... and also sleeping bags, a stove, kerosene and provisions for cooking etc. as he felt we may not get hotel food everywhere, this early in season. We may get to stay in PWD Resthouses and local Home-stays, so no need to carry tent.
On 14th May 07, we three got on to Delhi-Munsiary bus at 9:30am at Bageshwar. Arrived in Munsiary late evening at 6:15pm and checked into Pandey Lodge (Ok Room, Rs 200/- pre-season rate) near the bus-stand.
On 15th May 2007, Debu went to SDM-Munisary office with my hand-written "trek application" letter, got it endorsed for 12 days trek till Milam Glacier and also had it "endorsed" at the ITBP check-post in Munisary. These formalities are a must for all trekkers. Else one may be refused entry at the ITBP checkposts along the trail .... at Budgiar, Railkot and Milam.
Finally at 11:00am, we departed, by a Share Jeep descending down into Gori Ganga valley to a place called Selapani; from where the trekking trail actually starts.
***** Day 1 *****
We started the trek at 12:24 PM on 15th May 2007, from Selapani. The trail is along the "true-right" of Gori Ganga (until we cross over to "true-left" after Martoli, on 5th day). In fact, the entire trek is alongside Gori Ganga ... which can be seen and/or heard throughout this trek right upto Milam Glacier!
Within half-hour of trek start, we came across this waterfall...... roaring down a huge rock face on the trek trail.
This is Lilam ...we reached here at 4pm after a 3-hour trek; the last hour a stiff ascent. The PWD rest house where I stayed, is further down below the hut you seen on left of picture.
***** day 2 *****
See that small wooden bridge, way down across two rocks? ... its for crossing Gori Ganga; used by HEP project workers, to work on both sides.
After about 4hrs trek, from Lilam, we reached this teahouse at Rargari (pronounced "railgadi" by locals) at Gori Ganga river-bed level. We had breakfast of roti-sabzi here.
***** day 3 *****
The first of the 6 snow bridges, we had to cross on the trail, appeared just past the Naharadevi temple.... wasn't tough, as snow was packed hard.
That's me and Balwant on another stretch of snow, past Nahardevi
A huge waterfall ..... flows into .... and then under the snowbridge
View of Gori Ganga Valley from Rilkot, looking further up toward Milam
***** day 4 *****
Looking back at Rilkot, 1 hour after leaving it ... as white specs way back on that green meadow (near the center of the picture).
View from Martoli ...looking south down the valley
Martoli Peak ...... which looms over the Martoli village
Narendra Martoli (the owner of the GH where we stayed, in Pic at left) seemed to be very knowledgeable about Martoli Village and its importance in the Tibetan trade days. He has a collection of old tools and artifacts that he is willing to show to an interested tourist. He also suggested that I meet a gentlemen named Mallika Varti, near Shamali Bend, in Munsiary, who has a huge collection of information on local birds, snakes etc. Unfortunately, I could'nt meet Mr Varti.
View of my corner of the room .. with my sleeping bag and stuff .. at Martoli where we stayed in Narender's Home-Stay hotel.
**************
